Brakes

[Wildpix]

Time to do my brakes, I need front Rotors & Pads as well as rear drums & shoes. Any suggestions as to brands & where to buy them? Do I need spring kits as well? Should I do anything with my bearings while I'm at it??

Thanks.

[Snafu]

I am not sure which brand I used but it was decent name (Wagner or something other name brand).

Personally I change out the bearings if I do not know if they were changed (I bought used so I decided it was due) or per the FSM. I also took the time to clean out the locking hubs.

A bit of a warning, the FSM seemed to have been written in a version of English I couldn't understand. Most of it was okay except on how to pull the bearings. Even with the diagrams I was scratching my head on how to get the bearings off. I finally got it and discovered that a special tool is required (or made). I made a temporary tool out of a flat bar and two bolts. It worked but I want to make a better version that can be torqued properly.

With the locking hubs, the dealer suggested I use bearing grease rather than the lube recommended in the FSM (their reply was "yeah, all we use is the bearing grease. We never use that lube." DO NOT DO IT. A bud of mine (a Ford truck mechanic) recommended fluid film. Its a light weight lube that dispels water. It is also good for a number of other things.

Download the FSM and print out the relevant pages before hand.

Good luck

[Simon]

Why not bearing grease? I use it on my wheel bearings, and Pezzy's, with no ill effects. My old truck had original bearings at 316,000kms when I killed it.

[rush356]

Today i noticed my parking brake not holding anymore, so i adjusted as far as it will go but still not holding much. Looks like i have to do my rear pads and i will do the shoes too. Mine are disc braks +parking brake.

So back to the question wich brakes and where to get them?

[Simon]

What makes you think you have to do the rear pads? If the parking brake doesn't work, just adjust it. The shoes most likely aren't completely worn out.

The pads have absolutely nothing to do with the e-brake.

EDIT: Sorry, somehow I skimmed over the part where you said you adjusted it.

[rush356]

Well if i am going to do shoes i might as well do the pads too, there isnt much left on them.

[Big Bird]

Serge check if the cables are sticking, the linkages and levers arent seizing. Once that starts to occur your E-brake feels like its not tightening, feeling loose. Your vehicles e-brake wont work. I wouldnt adjust the cables or the shoes yet until you see if any thing is sticking or seized.

[Big Bird]

Why not bearing grease? I use it on my wheel bearings, and Pezzy's, with no ill effects. My old truck had original bearings at 316,000kms when I killed it.

I'm with Simon on this one. If the bearings dont look damaged or scarred reuse the same bearings with bearing grease. thats what I do as well.

[rush356]

John i checked cables first, they are ok. My hand brake would go up at 90 degree angle and no parking brake on the hill.

[Big Bird]

John i checked cables first, they are ok. My hand brake would go up at 90 degree angle and no parking brake on the hill.

I'm just sayin because sometimes the levers inside the drums start to seize causing the shoes to be in the braking position. So when you go to pull your e-brake it feels loose, really loose. If your shoes are thinner or equal to the backing plate of the shoes then change them. Once the shoes are changed dont forget to slack off the adjuster all the way back or you wont fit the drum over.

[rush356]

Good to know that, tomorrow i will take a look inside. Hey John is any brand of brakes better then others ? also where to get them? Thanks man.

[Big Bird]

There is always cheap quality to great quality brake pads. Different grades of quality. I on the other hand prefer OEM parts. Ive dealt with all sorts of aftermarket brake parts from cheap to performance parts and they were never as good as OEM. Ive seen after market pads split to becoming knives cutting into the rotors. Aftermarket rotors warping to even splitting in half. Thats my own opinion and from my experience.

[rush356]

Hmm interesting, i'll check how much dealer want and see. I used raybestos before on my old truck, they were ok. Do you know who makes oem brakes?

[Big Bird]

OEM stands for original equipment manufacturer. OEM is Nissan, parts, Toyota parts, Suzuki parts and so on..

[Snafu]

Why not bearing grease? I use it on my wheel bearings, and Pezzy's, with no ill effects. My old truck had original bearings at 316,000kms when I killed it.

Yes, use bearing grease on the bearings but I wouldn't use it on the auto locking hubs. With the bearing grease in the hubs it would not easily disengage out of 4wd (you hear a clicking noise). Bearing grease is too thick for the hubs IMO and would recommend using a lighter lube.

As for the bearings, I'm the type to replace things if I am "in the area" but only if I don't know the service history. I'm not saying it is necessary but it's one of the things I replace on a used vehicle as I get around to it.

[Simon]

Ahh....thanks for the clarification, Ron!

Oh, and John (BigBird) I've had OEM pads split in half as well.

Serge,
I've had excellent luck with the Monroe line of brake parts from CT. They're high quality, ceramic pads, that seem to wear really well. On top of that, they're on sale this week.

[Snafu]

NP Simon.

Check out parts source too. They are suppose to be the same as CT but with cheaper prices and more selection

[rush356]