Under Truck Spare Tire and Aftermarket Rear Bumper

[Nd4SpdSe]

I stopped to check out the work being on my truck. Sadly they started later than I expected, and my brush guard won't done for tomorrow, but the rear bumper will be. Anyways, I asked for a hitch done on the bumper, as typically is done on a aftermarket rear bumper, but they said the hitch won't fit because the spare tire is in the way to properly reinforce it, so they'll make one on it but say it can't tow. This bumper will not have a spare tire carrier on it.

I was wondering if anyone with an aftermarket rear bumper can tell me if a spare fits underneath, and even better, post pics. Unfortunately I kind of need this information for tomorrow.

[Bow_Tied]

I suspect they are covering their butts for liability. I don't have a bumper to reference but what you can do for some idea is look up pics of a couple different class 3 hitches. They are either square or round tube formed to go around the spare tire with a receiver in the middle, not a lot too them.

If you make some gusset plates on both sides of the bumper you should be good, properly sized and welded.

Are you making a plate or tube bumper?

[Nd4SpdSe]

Similar to this:


What's a gusset plate?

[Bow_Tied]

You will want a gusset style plate underneath on the outside for trailer chain attachment anyway. Make it strong enough to reinforce the tube. How much clearance on the inside to the tire do you have?

[Bow_Tied]

Sorry missed your question. A gusset is simple a triangular pc of plate or similar to reinforce two other members. A simple example is two pcs of square tubing at right angles with a triangular plate bracing them at the joint.


Sent from my shoe phone.

[Nd4SpdSe]

How much clearance on the inside to the tire do you have?

Lol, that's exactly my question. I have not much clearance since the tire supposedly is right up against it

[Nd4SpdSe]

I found this Bender bumper pic, I'm pretty sure it's an Xterra bumper. It shows the inside structure and support.


As far as I see and understand it, this is the current OEM setup. The spare tire is right up against the bumper. The bumper ans spare tire are mis-aligned because of the body lift.


This is the way It'll be built. He says he likes to go back about 2 inches behind the bumper for support. It looks like the BBBB does this. This setup he says will not be strong enough to pull a trailer.


Since the spare tire has no capable movement, this would be the issue

[Miner]

Unfortunately I can't see the pictures at work, but here are my thoughts:

The 5-speed has a minimal tow capacity in the first place, the stock steel bumper on most trucks is "stronger" than an X with the 5-speed. As long as the the receiver tube is gusseted to the plate it should be fine fore the trucks capability.

The real stress this bumper could see is during a recovery. Two D-Rings or clevis mounts in-line with the frame and properly fabricated is what you need. The two recovery points will distribute the recovery load, and transfer it directly to the frame. Don't recover with the receiver hitch.

[Simon]

Michel,
My bumper does go back from the "angled" portion as shown in your 2nd diagram above. With the hitch, it would need to have that support, or it would "peel" the bumper forward upon towing, or recovery.

Is there not a structural beam inside the bumper you're having made that they could build off to give you the required strength? For instance, I installed my receiver, and welded it not only to the bumper face material, but to the beam in behind it, as well as added a couple of brackets to tie the receiver to the beam, with additional welding. It's not going anywhere.

Long story short....If it's not strong enough to tow with, it's not strong enough to recover with. You may as well not have it if that's the case.

[JAS]

Can you go higher with the receiver tube and then use a ball mount with a larger drop?

I don't have a lot of pics from when I built my rear bumper, but this is how I reinforced it from the back. This is when it was just tacked together. Keep in mind that this is for a 2nd gen.



The receiver tube is further supported on the outside by a plate which allows my trailer safety chains to be attached.

Hope this helps.

[Nd4SpdSe]

Sorry Josh, I had to host the pics through FB since I can't access any picture hosting service since they're websites don't support IE8.

The bumber is being made with 2 recovery points in-line with the frame exactly as you said it should be. He also described it to do exactly as you said it might Simon if I pulled/towed with the bumper. So Simon, that means you can fit a stock spare under your truck?

[Bow_Tied]

Can you go higher with the receiver tube and then use a ball mount with a larger drop?

That is what I was going to say. And the idea of step bracing or similar to what Jas shows is a great idea.

[Nd4SpdSe]

I thought of that too, I actually had found a pic this morning of one, but it didn't click that the reciever was flush mounted, and I have no idea how you would get a pin in there. I like how it was flush, but having it extended out for the pin, well, it would stick out quite a bit, no?

[JAS]

The guys who flush mount their receiver tube have to put in their pin from the backside of the bumper. Flush mount is nice in that nothing sticks out and you don't bang you leg on it, but you have to put in your pin 'blind'. Not an issue once you get use to it I suppose. This is only an option if you are getting the spare out of there.

On mine I set the receiver tube such that I can put in the pin from the outside, and I don't mind the tube sticking out as I use that as a step. On the 2nd gen the vertical plane of the bumper is higher then what you are dealing with so the step up feature is of limited value as it only appears to be a few inches difference. I do like not having to put in my pin 'blind' though.

If you are not doing a swing arm, What are your plans for the license plate and illumination? Also, are you surface mounting your trailer harness connection?

[Bow_Tied]

The pin is only 5/8" but you need room for the pin lock or cotter pin so I'd have the pin hole about 1.5" out. More if you don't want to rub knuckles.

I recommend a harness connector that is a combo 7 pin and 4 pin. PA has them. Easy add for a brake controller later if desired and can connect to 90% of trailers. It also allows for a 12v aux output. I put in only a 7 pin and now have to mess around with an adaptor for my utility trailers. Rigid mount in a manner that will drain moisture is my suggestion. Ideally get one with weather sealing gaskets and dielectric grease it.


Sent from my shoe phone.

[Nd4SpdSe]

Oh, that would be cool, but ya, would be more of a pain with the spare tire there...

For the light I'll figure something out, will be nothing different than the light like you guys use with your swing arms. It'll be offset to the right, and I've also made sure with them to leave a hole to stick the rod in to lower the spare. I've already considered those items

In all honestly, as much as this may not make sence to anyone but me (but this is my truck afterall ) is that I'm keeping the stock hitch. The bumper hitch I do/want to be able to recover with it; I could keep my reciever shackle mount in it rather than my OEM hitch since its that that usually that that hits so it'll give me that extra clearance.. If and when I tow with it, it would be for when I can get an off-road/Frontier-bed trailer done, which will unfortunately been a bit I think. It's typical use would be to be able to use my bike rack, or eventually I want to get make a fold-down spare-tire carrier that mounts into the hitch on the bumper and I can put it on and I want it and gives me more flexibility.

My exhaust had been re-re-run (yep), and from my mechanics measurement, I should be able to fit upto a 34 under the truck now as is.

I've already got a 4-pin harness on the truck. I've wanted to put in a brake controller for years, but with limited funds and since I don't need it, I haven't bothered with it. The 4-pin does the job for the little I use it at the moment.

[SlaveX]

My exhaust had been re-re-run (yep), and from my mechanics measurement, I should be able to fit upto a 34 under the truck now as is.

I don't think you can fit there anything bigger than 33". Main reason is the distance between diff and bumper. I can stuff mine 33 in there but it still rubs against diff when it travels up. Even though my stock bumper is flexible enough to pull back at least 1/4" when tightening tire against the frame. That means your bumper, or its middle portion would have to be at least 1" further back than stock to fit 34.
Another thing is eliminating hitch and leaving spare under you exposing it to all the beating the hitch was taking before.
That's why my spare goes in the trunk for summer and under for winter when I don't have to worry that I'll f**k it up on the rock.

[Simon]

I have no idea if I can fit a stock spare under there at this point. Never tried, and don't care.

To be honest, if you're keeping your hitch, You should forget the receiver, and just go with a couple of d-rings on the bumper. If you decide to rework things in the future, it's not like you can't add a receiver then.

[Nd4SpdSe]

I'm running 32's and don't expect to run larger than 33's, so it would be ok I think

I just picked up the truck now and thanks for all the information guys, it really helped and gave him a few ideas that he didn't think of. He'll be keeping the bumper to finish it off since he doesn't need the truck. Here's the work done so far. He doesn't want me to share the pics on FB, but I'll post them here. Don't mind the blurred out part, it's for the respect of the owner of the shop and respecting his request.

[Miner]

I'm confused, if you always planned to keep the receiver hitch for towing why did you care that the "bike rack mount" receiver in the bumper wouldn't be rated to tow?