Time for a timing belt?

[Hodie]

I think I know the answer but I'm going to ask anyhow...
Is there any way to inspect the timing belt on my '02 SE SC Xterra without actually tearing it down? I have a cheap borescope if that helps.
I recently bought it from a used vehicle dealer so no background info. It has 249000k's. I've tried to contact one of the previous owners who (according to the used vehicle package provided by our MTO office) owned the truck from new until last year (when it had 225000 k) but no luck. There was one more owner before me who only kept it for 9 months.

I don't mind doing the job but would rather wait until next spring for various reasons.
Or better still I'd like to know that the job was done in the recent past and all is in good shape.

thanks!

Ken

[Adam]

You might be able to take the upper cover off without too much work, but you'll need to pull the SC belt, idlers and bracket at least. Then you'll have to rotate the motor and check the whole belt to ensure it is good. If it is a nissan belt, could be original and on borrowed time. If aftermarket, then it was changed...If it were my truck I would do it anyway. I would hate to be broke down on the side of the road in the middle of January.

And you know if it breaks it will be at the worst possible time!

[the x kid]

If it breaks while driving the motor is toast.

[Hodie]

Thanks for the replies. I know the consequences of letting it go too far.
I was hoping there might be some way to sneak in there and get a look at the condition without totally doing the job. The truck appears to have been well looked after and there are tell tale signs that the rad has been out before. So maybe it was done but I guess I better just do it to be safe.

Ken

[Snafu]

At 250K the belt should have been replaced at least once already at ~170K.

Do you suspect it wasn't done?

For those who have replaced their belt, do you have to pull the rad just to get the covers off to inspect the belt? Hopefully you can just pull the accessories off to get at the cover and do an inspection and it would give you a chance to loosen everything up for the next time.

[Hodie]

I agree that it should have been done by now and the rest of the truck looks like it was owned by someone who cared enough to keep up on routine maintenance. And with one owner from new till 2015 you'd think it would be done.
BUT, (and its a big but) I don't know.
I know its not a huge job and not overly expensive but it would be better for me to tackle it in the spring rather than this close to winter, (non motorcycle commuting weather ).

Ken

[Adam]

Get Lucas to help you. He probably has done one or two before. It is really simple. Just make sure all the marks line up and the tension is correct. Not much else to go wrong with it.

[the x kid]

They usually change the water pump at the same time.

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[Hodie]

Ok, so what is the feeling about OEM vs after market parts? Both Dayco and Gates offer belts and kits including the water pump and tensioner. And both companies produce decent products as far as my experience goes but I've never used either for a timing belt.

And; I understand while there I should replace the water pump, thermostat, tensioner/bearings, camshaft seals if leaking---anything else I should have on hand? (Obviously anti-freeze, oil, ATF etc)

thanks again for all the advice!

PS-Lucas says he never changed one...he'll help but I have to wait until hunting season is over

[sandor]

Did mine a couple months ago. I used a kit by Aisin (TKN001) from Wrench Monkey. http://www.thewrenchmonkey.ca/products/ ... in/tkn001/
I also replaced the thermostat and seals at the same time. Pick up some hose clamps and RTV just in case. No need for engine oil or ATF, however anti-freeze is a must.

You will need a 27mm socket for the crank pulley bolt, and a puller to get the pulley off.

[Adam]

The first time I ever did one I used a nissan kit, obviously it was fine. I've since used Gates, dayco, and continental (on my X now) with no problems. For my pathy's last change I pieced it together at the parts store with different brands to save money. As long as you go with a name brand you will be fine.

The main part I find that is a pain in the ass is sliding the new belt on, sometimes they can be tight. Also scraping the old waterpump gasket off is a b*tch. I always smash my hands into the rear timing belt cover lol.

[Hodie]

Thanks Sandor and Adam. Did some pricing, local Napa can get the Gates set with the pump and tensioner- my cost $206 plus tax. The exact same kit, (same part number etc) from Rockauto in the states is $135 Cdn including shipping, no tax unless it gets dinged with duty at the border. I order a fair amount of bike parts and most of the time I don't have to pay. But you never know.
Wonderful how a US company can still make money at that price? Doesn't make sense. Only trouble with Rockauto is the last part I ordered from them took three weeks to get here.
And I can get OEM Nissan kit with the pump and tensioner from E-Bay for $205Cdn including shipping.
I'll decide in the next week or so and get something on the way.

Ya, not looking forward to gasket scraping. I hope they don't use the same gasket material as Yamaha do on their engines. Tough stuff!

Spent a few hours today doing some rust proofing. Using Corrosion Free Formula 3000 from the tire store. I removed all the door panels including the rear gate. And the wheel well moldings/side panel plastics. 4 cans, ($60) later I think I've done a pretty good job. Hoping to make her last.

Ken

[the x kid]

Saw a 27 mm socket for 15.59 at princess auto.

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[Snafu]

Gasket remover works pretty good. Just keep it off plastic.

[Hodie]

Ordered the kit from Rockauto in the states. Added a quality thermostat and the total after changing the money including shipping, tax and duty is $147.72 Cdn. Delivery is supposed to be by the end of the month. I'd prefer to shop local but I can't justify a one hundred dollar difference for the exact same parts.
I've got a deep and a shallow 27mm socket in 1/2 inch drive so I should be ok? Plus the three bolt puller, (harmonic balancer puller). I should have most of what I need at home, just have to remember to bring a few things home from work. Also going to have a pair of 6203 sealed bearings on hand to replace them in the belt idler pulleys.
I've never used gasket remover but I'll pick some up and give it a try. Anything is better than scraping in hard to reach places. Always ends in bloodshed.
thanks for all the advice!
Ken

[Adam]

You'll be fine with those sockets. Agreed sometimes it is hard to buy local when you can save so much online!

Gonna have to try those bearings on the extra pulleys I had from my old engine. They make a lot of noise when the truck is cold.

[Snafu]

The gasket remover (spray can) might be hard to get into tight spots. I think it contains MEK (check the can label to confirm). If it does contain MEK then you can buy the liquid form (body tool/paint aisle at CT) and use a brush to apply (natural bristles cause MEK will eat the plastic bristles). Warning, MEK will also eat paint and other plastics, some mild burning of the skin too...nasty stuff but good to have around.

[Drizit]

It's a wonderful organic solvent, eats brain cells like candy if you use the liquid for be sure to use a mask with the appropriate filters, not much works better though.

[sandor]

Are you guys referring to Methyl Ethyl Ketone? If so, it's actually not that bad...like acetone, it's a simple ketone and is actually not that toxic. It only has one extra methyl group than acetone.

Don't get me wrong, like other concentrated solvents, wear rubber/ nitrile gloves, work with it in a well ventilated area, and don't ingest it...but you shouldn't need a respirator for the small amount of work you are doing.

For what it's worth, I never needed gasket remover when I did mine...lots of room for a scraper / emory cloth without busting knuckles.

[Snafu]

Bah! Get a little buzz goin'!

For cleaning gasket surfaces you are not using that much. A different matter if you are stripping a panel.

If you are going to rely on gloves for protection then test them to make sure they will not dissolve.