Pulling the Transmission

[buttsy]

Good day all!

Been a long time since I started a pertinent thread here. You know how it is: life, the universe, and everything. At any rate, I need some advice. I have to pull my transmission for a couple reasons.

One, I'm almost positive the RMS is gone (either that or the oil pan has had it) as the X is losing oil at a fantastic rate. It used to be just a trickle, but in the last week it's become a deluge. I tried to check with my inspection camera but I can't tell if it's the oil pan or RMS.

Two, one of my transmission mount horns is broken. Don't know when that happened, but I want to get it welded.

I'm assuming this will also make the header installation easier. While I'm in there I'm going to drop in a new clutch (Centerforce II from Rugged Rocks I think, anyone have other suggestions?), and a new oil pan (because why not)?

My question: is there anything else maintenance wise or mod wise that's worth doing while the transmission et al is removed? I replaced the starter not long ago so that's done already. I'm going to give a good once over of any lines and wiring that passes through that area for arguments sake, as well as a good look at the condition of the floor pan. In fact I might clean it up and give it a couple coats of paint just to keep that nasty Winter Juice from making the X into a mobile outhouse for a few more years.

Does that about sum it up?

There IS a bit of a timeline on this one as I won't be going to Adventure Weekend to wheel if I don't get this done. Well I think I might be able to get the VW through Picard Lake, so there's that I suppose.

[Adam]

You should make sure whether it is the oil pan or the RMS, as the pan requires dropping the front differential, the RMS is a trans pull. If it is wet mostly at the back and down the bottom of the trans it is likely the RMS. When you change the rear main seal there is a retainer that you remove. If you take it off you will disturb the oil pan seal that seats against the bottom of it. You need to replace that, or change the RMS without pulling that retainer (doable, but the manual wants you to remove it).

One of my mounts on my trans has been broken for years to be honest. I always forget about it until I'm under there. Probably good to weld it back together though.

I would do the clutch, change the clutch fluid, ensure the master/slave are in good shape, and check the seals on the tranny to make sure they aren't leaking.

Good Luck! The manual trans is so much easier to move around than the automatic!

[buttsy]

Yeah, looking at pulling the front diff too if required. The oil is all at the back of the pan, but so is the worst of the rust. I want to change the clutch too, so that's a transmission pull either way. I don't mind pulling the front diff and all that too. The truck isn't moving from the spot it's in till it gets fixed. Might even swap out the engine mounts since I'm likely getting an order from Rugged Rocks anyway.

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[Bow_Tied]

I don't know if the trans input goes into a bushing or a bearing on an X, but regardless it is likely worth replacing for the cost of the part vs. future labour. I'm only used the mechanical throw-out bearings so I don't have much to comment on there except if that part is cheap do it too; same reason.

You got all this apart, might as well get the ujoints done too. If there is a drive-line shop near you take the whole drive shaft assy to them and they'll likely check the shaft for trueness/balance where as joe mechanic would just swap the joints. Can help eliminate vibrations.