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Re: Another "Failed E-test" Thread

Posted: Thu Mar 10, 2011 9:20 pm
by Ozzker
Will do!

Re: Another "Failed E-test" Thread

Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 11:03 am
by studum
How'd you make out with this? Pass?

Re: Another "Failed E-test" Thread

Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 2:00 pm
by Ozzker
Had some difficulties getting the cat, there was a miscommunication involving shipping. I should have it in my hands a week today and i'll update the thread once I go in for the next E-Test.

Re: Another "Failed E-test" Thread

Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 5:24 pm
by Fyrtowr
And the anxiousness begins. What will be the fate of Ozzker's 1998 Pathfinder.....

Re: Another "Failed E-test" Thread

Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 5:55 pm
by Ozzker
1988 sir, 10 more years back! :thumbup:

Re: Another "Failed E-test" Thread

Posted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 6:16 pm
by puzzel
phack drive clean


i am moving up north where i dont have to worrie about it anymore

Re: Another "Failed E-test" Thread

Posted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 2:28 pm
by Ozzker
Drive clean is a stupid b*tch.

New Scores:

Image

I have a brand new cat, brand new O2, used exhaust with no leaks, new air filter, and a seafoam job done since the last test, and I did much better this time, but idle CO% is still wayy too high.

Any ideas, anyone?! What it may be, what may fix it, any tips or ticks to get it to pass, fake e-test, ANYTHING?! Im sooo frustrated with this truck and its E-TEST!! Why couldn't it be an 87?!?! Anyone have a full set of vin plates for an 87?!

Thanks in advance for any help guys, everything is appreciated!!

Re: Another "Failed E-test" Thread

Posted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 2:45 pm
by Nismojunky
plugs and wires is the egr valve working? how do your vacume lines look

Re: Another "Failed E-test" Thread

Posted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 4:41 pm
by Nd4SpdSe
IDLE EMISSIONS
A vehicle that has sharply elevated HC or CO emissions at idle will usually have a noticeable misfire and/or rough idle. The most likely causes here would be:
Fouled spark plug(s);

Shorted spark plug wire(s) or defective plug boot(s);

Vacuum leak;

EGR valve stuck open;

Burned exhaust valve;

Misadjusted throttle body air/fuel mixture; or

Misadjusted carburetor idle mixture.

An extremely rich fuel condition can also cause elevated HC and CO at idle, while an extremely lean condition will only cause HC to rise abnormally. A leaky EGR valve can act like a vacuum leak and cause a lean misfire at idle.

HC and CO will be somewhat higher as a cold engine warms up because the fuel system may still be running in open loop. Until the engine reaches a predetermined temperature and/or the oxygen sensor gets hot enough to produce a good signal, the PCM will supply a relatively rich mixture while the system is in open loop. A faulty thermostat that is stuck open or a defective coolant sensor may prevent the system from going into closed loop.

NOX emissions are always lowest during idle and decel because that is when engine load and combustion temperatures are lowest.

Re: Another "Failed E-test" Thread

Posted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 5:31 pm
by Adam
Fouled spark plug(s);

Shorted spark plug wire(s) or defective plug boot(s);

Vacuum leak;

EGR valve stuck open;
These. Replace the plugs/wires/cap/rotor. Check for vacuum leaks like robb said. Or just get the diagram from the fsm and change them all.

Re: Another "Failed E-test" Thread

Posted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 6:29 pm
by Ozzker
plugs and wires SHOULD be new, according to the PO. they look pretty nice too, so I think they are. Vacuum leaks may be the case, I will have to search, and I haven't even looked at the EGR yet, it may be faulty, who knows. Its running very nicely, no miss, no rough idle, nothing. It idles at 750-800RPM no problem.

Now, I know the Rad is **I have a filthy mouth, pass the soap**, and it did overheat while idling once today. For the test, i had them stick a massive fan into the grill to keep her cool, and she still got warmer then she should. Would changing the Rad make a difference, I have a newish one sitting here that I haven't gotten around to installing yet!!

Re: Another "Failed E-test" Thread

Posted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 6:50 pm
by Nd4SpdSe
Ya, the coolant sensor I believe does have an affect on it.

Re: Another "Failed E-test" Thread

Posted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 9:35 pm
by Ozzker
Allright, so thats on my list of stuff to check and change this weekend, and I may as well get the new rad in, pull the EGR and clean it, put in a new PCV, and check the timing, as well as the ignition system. All that, plus a lift and a 5spd swap, I am gunna have one hell of a weekend / next week.

Re: Another "Failed E-test" Thread

Posted: Sun Apr 10, 2011 9:25 am
by studum
Ozzker wrote:plugs and wires SHOULD be new, according to the PO. they look pretty nice too, so I think they are. Vacuum leaks may be the case, I will have to search, and I haven't even looked at the EGR yet, it may be faulty, who knows. Its running very nicely, no miss, no rough idle, nothing. It idles at 750-800RPM no problem.

Now, I know the Rad is **I have a filthy mouth, pass the soap**, and it did overheat while idling once today. For the test, i had them stick a massive fan into the grill to keep her cool, and she still got warmer then she should. Would changing the Rad make a difference, I have a newish one sitting here that I haven't gotten around to installing yet!!
Open up the Distributor and take a look. When I was chasing my misfire I dismissed the cap and rotor because they were supposed to be new also. Even looked pretty as you say...

When it was opened up a socket was found inside and the tip of the rotor was bent up at a 45 degree angle. Wasn't the end of my misfire, but still...

Good luck

Re: Another "Failed E-test" Thread

Posted: Sun Apr 10, 2011 9:35 am
by Ozzker
studum wrote:
Ozzker wrote:plugs and wires SHOULD be new, according to the PO. they look pretty nice too, so I think they are. Vacuum leaks may be the case, I will have to search, and I haven't even looked at the EGR yet, it may be faulty, who knows. Its running very nicely, no miss, no rough idle, nothing. It idles at 750-800RPM no problem.

Now, I know the Rad is **I have a filthy mouth, pass the soap**, and it did overheat while idling once today. For the test, i had them stick a massive fan into the grill to keep her cool, and she still got warmer then she should. Would changing the Rad make a difference, I have a newish one sitting here that I haven't gotten around to installing yet!!
Open up the Distributor and take a look. When I was chasing my misfire I dismissed the cap and rotor because they were supposed to be new also. Even looked pretty as you say...

When it was opened up a socket was found inside and the tip of the rotor was bent up at a 45 degree angle. Wasn't the end of my misfire, but still...

Good luck
Thanks, added to Thursdays To-Do list!!

Also, sending you a PM about borrowing your jack and jack stands! :)

Re: Another "Failed E-test" Thread

Posted: Sun Apr 10, 2011 12:41 pm
by Ozzker
Just typed the VIN of the Pathy into the MTO's drive clean site, apparently it has not passed an E-Test for over 3 years. Great.

Re: Another "Failed E-test" Thread

Posted: Sun Apr 10, 2011 7:41 pm
by Adam
The TBI pathys have some funky emissions poop near where the newer wd21 airbox would be. Have you checked that none of it has been disconnected?

Re: Another "Failed E-test" Thread

Posted: Sun Apr 10, 2011 8:36 pm
by Ozzker
adamzan wrote:The TBI pathys have some funky emissions poop near where the newer wd21 airbox would be. Have you checked that none of it has been disconnected?
I didn't even know that it existed lol!

Added to Thursdays to-do list!! :thumbup:

Re: Another "Failed E-test" Thread

Posted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 11:43 am
by Scotto
I failed with spectacular numbers. Looks like unburnt fuel is coming out the tail pipe. I have noticed the mileage jump in the last six weeks, from about 14L/100Km to 16L or so. So, I changed plugs for the hell of it. One side is running rich (1,3,5) and one side is a bit lean (2,4,6). Plugs had about 110,000 on them (Nissan says they can go for 170,000).

Anyway, what might cause this richness/leaness? O2 sensors?

Here's the #s (we ought to have a competition for best fail on e-test):

at 40km/h:
HC: limit - 48 reading - 489
CO% limit - 0.27 reading 7.13
NO limit - 521 reading - 664

idle:
HC limit - 150 reading - 600
CO% limit - 0.7 reading - 5.81

Re: Another "Failed E-test" Thread

Posted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 12:04 pm
by Simon
Could definitely be O2's causing issues. I'd look at replacing the Bank 1 O2's on each side. Worst case, it's said to increase mileage slightly, and will get you toward your conditional pass.