Front Rotors Removal/Replacement

[Nd4SpdSe]

Besides that my pads are actually backorderd for a week, I'm thinking of tacking my rotors on the weekend, and drive the 8 until the pads come in of course. I should have everything I need on me, with the exemption of snap-ring pliers, unless I really need those, but looking at the instructions, I saw the requirement for this tool; is it necessary and if not, what do you use otherwise?



Any other suggestions? I've never worked on a 4x4 truck and haven't ever taken the hubs off on my truck.

[Simon]

Use a screwdriver and hammer to unscrew the bearing locknut. I did that to loosen and tignten that nut for years before I had the right tool, with no issues. Just don't overtighten. You want no play in the bearing, but it still be able to rotate freely.

[Jayman]

If you aren't replacing the bearings, then you really don't need the tool.

When you are doing the bearings, the tool allows you to tighten the lock nut down to the require ft/lbs in order to seat the bearings properly. Once you've done that though, you're actually supposed to back the lock nut off until it's free spinning again. You can basically get it to finger tight, give it a 1/4 turn or whatever to line up the screw holes on the retainer ring, and you're golden.

Good luck!

Pro-tip: When removing the assembly from the hub, put some shop towels or something either on your lap, or on the ground directly below your work area. This will help keep your outside bearings clean when they launch themselves out of the assembly and onto the ground.

Also, for reference, this write up is great for the job you'll be doing: http://www.cntc.ca/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=24" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

You are going a little further in doing the rotors, but the steps are the same, plus a couple more for the rotors themselves...

Snap ring pliers will make your life easier, but they aren't a necessity.

[fleurys]

me, I bought a dana44 socket at 11$ and cut two prong and grinded a bit the other two... It now fits perfectly and you can use it with a torque wrench..


This is exactly what I bought at exactly this place :
http://www.buytools.ca/index.php/wilmar ... -tool.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I just redid all my bearing and races 2 weeks ago...

[Adam]

Here is the actual tool you need if you want to buy one:


http://www.autopart.com/TOOLS/TOOLSMAIN/tool/T_4170.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;




But what fleurys posted does work and they are probably easier to find in a local store.

[Nd4SpdSe]

Well I attempted the passenger side and had no problem with the hub assembly, but I got stuck not being able to remove the "torque member" since it looks to need a 21mm wrench/socket which I don't have. Can anyone confirm it's a 21mm?



Also I got a feeling that the hub won't want to let go of the rotor, any suggestions or tricks on that?

[Adam]

For the hub/rotor I had to hammer mine around on the rotor to get it to release from the hub. I would only do this if you are replacing (not resurfacing) the rotors.

[Jayman]

Well I attempted the passenger side and had no problem with the hub assembly, but I got stuck not being able to remove the "torque member" since it looks to need a 21mm wrench/socket which I don't have. Can anyone confirm it's a 21mm?

...

Also I got a feeling that the hub won't want to let go of the rotor, any suggestions or tricks on that?

It's a 22mm bolt actually, not 21mm. I confirmed on my truck.

As for splitting the rotor from the hub, I've used a pickle fork to get them separated (creative use of tools 101), as well as Adam's method using a hammer, both worked.

[Snafu]

^^What he said. I bought one just for it. If you were only closer

[fleurys]

I had to use multiple hammer slam to separate the rotor but I was changing them so did not care to damage them... if you want to keep them I would go with a plastic hammer

[Nd4SpdSe]

Well the passenger side is done, minus the pads, but that part is easy, and I thank you guys for the help. However, I started the drivers side, and the 22mm bolts are giving me a bad omen. I put my 1/2 ratched on with my hi-lift jack arm as a breaker bar and it's moving, very, very slowly with all my strength. I needed a breaker bar for the passenger side, but they went well. It went at the one bolt for probably over a half hour, with many rest in between and it doesn't look like it's budged, don't think it did a full rotation at all, maybe half, but I know it moved. Wondering if I should pick up a 6-pt socket just in case the 12pt strips it, but I wouldn't be surprised if I manged to take the head off that bolt. I love going my own work, I really do, but rarely does a job go by there there's always an extra-ordinary circumstance that'll make it way more difficult than it needs to be and almost out of my ability.

[Simon]

I've never heard of those bolts seizing, though they can be very tight, and difficult to break loose. I wouldn't use a 12 point socket if that much force is required, too much risk of stripping. If you have an impact gun, give that a shot. The vibration can help break the bolt loose.

[Jayman]

Not to freak you out, but this is what I did to one of my own torque member bolts. This was trying to reinstall it, attempting to torque it.





Thankfully, as I was tightening it, I heeded to the feeling that something just was not right, and backed off. When I took the bolt back out to see what was going on, that's what I came across. It had stretched out on me, instead of just snapping.

Impact is better 99% of the time.

[Adam]

I had the same problem (as nd4spd) with my brothers volkswagen, except on those cars it is an Allen bolt, I hammered one size bigger in there (it had stripped) and the impact took it right off.

Maybe get some heat in there if you have that available to you?

[Nd4SpdSe]

Maybe that's what it needs. I fired my impact on the passenger side, but it really didn't seem like it was going to budge, so I gave up on the impact and went to the breaker bar, but maybe that's what it needs. It also got a change to let some liquid wrench sit overnight, the drivers did didnt, yet.

[Snafu]

With a stubborn bolt try loosening a bit then tightening with the impact. Back and forth. Might get the threads moving.

Apply some heat and PB too,

@Jayman...what's wrong with that bolt? Looks fine

[Nd4SpdSe]

I didn't get a chance to give her a try yesterday, did a system (deck, amp, sub) in a buddies Mx-6. Did front pads on a Corvette on Saturday too, lol. I've got a few things to do tonight, so not sure if i'll be able to tackle it today.

The only thing I have for heat would be my buthane torch, not sure if it'll be enough, but it might work.

[Nd4SpdSe]

Well, the job is done! The 22mm's came out without much of a fuss. Picked up the 6pt 22mm yesterday along with my pads which came in the day before (yay backordered brake pads). The drivers side wheelbearing didn't slide in like the passenger side did and needed some love taps to get in there, got me a bit worried at first. Of course the new pads are super thick and had some fun getting the calipers on and the bolts lined up, but in the end it's all said and done!

Its nice to be able to do my own work and save some money, hopefully i'll be able to afford to go to AW, but it's also nice to have a second vehicle; started to work on her Saturday, continued on Sunday and couldn't touch it until today, so was able to tackle it with patience and no rush, usually the reason why I don't usually do my own work. Despite the challenges, I enjoy doing that kind of work and happy to have it accomplished

I would of loved to give them a try, but the dash is apart (running a CB wire and decided to organise some of that wiring mess behind there), so I'll get back to that tomorrow.

[studum]

Come on, those pads still had some meat on them

Glad you got it together without too much fuss.

[Jayman]

Good job Mike!